Dogs don’t act out “just because.” Their behavior is shaped by built-in instincts from their wild ancestors, mixed with what they’ve learned living with us. In this post, I’ll break down why dogs sometimes lose their cool, using simple ideas from animal behavior science. We’ll focus on everyday situations at home, in public, and during training, with practical tips to keep things safe and fun.
Think of your dog’s brain like a bucket filling up with “important stuff”—sights, sounds, smells, and feelings that grab their attention because they relate to survival basics like food, safety, or play. When the bucket overflows, your dog might switch from calm to out of control in a flash. This isn’t about being naughty; it’s biology at work. We call these attention-grabbers “key stimuli,” but really, they’re just things like a squirrel darting by, a loud noise, or feeling trapped on a leash. Multiple things can add up quickly, pushing your dog over the edge.
At Home: Spotting the Build-Up Before It Boils Over
Home should be a safe haven, but it’s where many behavior issues start because routines can accidentally stack stress. For example, if your dog is already tired from a long day, hungry, or dealing with a tummy ache, small things like the doorbell ringing or kids running around can fill that bucket fast.
One common issue is “frustration build-up.” Dogs love routines, like chasing a toy or greeting you at the door. If something blocks that—like a gate or a delayed meal—they get worked up. This amps up their reaction to other stuff. I’ve worked with dogs who bark endlessly at windows because they see birds or people but can’t reach them. It’s like teasing them without a payoff, leading to fixation or even aggression.
Tip: Manage the environment. Use baby gates or crates not as punishment, but to create calm zones. Provide chew toys or puzzle feeders that let them “finish” an activity, satisfying those instincts. If your dog gets overexcited during play, take short breaks to let them reset. And always watch for signs of overload: pacing, whining, or stiff body language. Enrichment is always a good daily practice if thoughtfully applied.
In Public: Navigating Crowds, Noises, and Surprises
Out in the world—parks, streets, or stores—things get unpredictable. Dogs evolved to notice quick movements (like prey) or approaching strangers (potential threats). A bike whizzing by, combined with traffic noise and unfamiliar smells, can overwhelm them. This is why a dog who’s fine at home might lunge at another dog on a walk.
Remember, it’s not always one big trigger; it’s the combo. If your dog is on a tight leash (feeling restricted), hears fireworks, and sees a jogger, that bucket overflows. They might freeze, bark, or pull away—not because they’re mean, but because their instincts kick in for protection or chase.
Tip: If things escalate, create space—cross the street or find a quiet spot. And for complex issues like fear around strangers, consult a vet, and I’m here to help.
During Training: Why Commands Sometimes Fail and How to Fix It
Training is where many owners notice these sudden shifts. You’ve taught “Sit” perfectly at home, but in the yard with squirrels around, your dog ignores you. It’s not defiance; their focus is hijacked by those key stimuli. If they’re excited or stressed, learned skills take a back seat to instincts.
Exhaustion plays a role too. After repeated commands or long sessions, dogs can get mentally tired, making them irritable or less responsive. Pushing through might make things worse. I call it, “running out of gas.” When I see it start, I end the lesson.
Tip: Keep sessions short, motivating and fun. I hand out an entire protocol to my new students on how to do a lesson. We pay attention more to how the dog is doing than forcing task development on the dogs.
Overall Strategies: Keeping the Bucket from Overflowing
The key is prevention: Reduce the “load” by addressing multiple factors at once. Ensure your dog gets good nutrition and enough sleep, exercise, and mental stimulation. Watch for early warning signs and adjust. This approach, based on my BASSO Method, focuses on understanding your dog’s natural needs rather than forcing change.
This isn’t medical advice—I’m not a vet. If your dog shows sudden changes, pain, or severe issues, see your vet right away.
References
- Basso, S. (2025). BASSO METHOD: Biologically Salient Stimuli and Responses in Domestic Dogs. https://samthedogtrainer.com
- Coppinger, R., & Coppinger, L. (2001). Dogs: A startling new understanding of canine origin, behavior & evolution. Scribner.
- Lorenz, K. (1952). King Solomon’s ring: New light on animal ways. Crowell.
- McPeake, K. J., Collins, L. M., Zulch, H., & Mills, D. S. (2019). The Canine Frustration Questionnaire—Development of a new psychometric tool for measuring frustration in domestic dogs (Canis familiaris). Frontiers in Veterinary Science, 6, Article 152. https://doi.org/10.3389/fvets.2019.00152
- Miklósi, Á. (2015). Dog behaviour, evolution, and cognition (2nd ed.). Oxford University Press.
- Salomons, J., Smith, K. C. M., Callahan-Beckel, M., et al. (2022). In dogs, social stimuli overshadow nonsocial stimuli. Animal Behaviour, 185, 97–108. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.anbehav.2022.01.004
- Skinner, B. F. (1938). The behavior of organisms: An experimental analysis. Appleton-Century.
- Tinbergen, N. (1951). The study of instinct. Clarendon Press.
- Trumler, E. (1973). Your dog and you. Seabury Press.
- Winkler, A. (n.d.). Prey drive promotion: Part I. https://rivannak9services.com/prey-drive-promotion-part-i/
- This article incorporates AI-assisted drafting based on the BASSO METHOD framework and has been reviewed for accuracy, alignment with ethological principles, and adherence to these parameters